Do you want to learn how to disassemble, rebuild, and troubleshoot the Clack WS1 water treatment valve? If so, great! That's what we're talking about here today.

I've often said that the Clack WS1 is the best water treatment valve in the business and I've done lots of videos featuring and troubleshooting these valves on our YouTube channel. Today we’re sharing a live stream video where I actually disassembled a Clack WS1 valve for an inside look under the cover! 
 
This is a great informational video for anyone that's involved in the water treatment business, is a plumber, or is a do-it-yourselfer at home who wants to know how to service these valves themselves. In this post I’m going to share with you why I recommend the Clack WS1 as the greatest water treatment valve out there today so you can decide if it’s the right fit for you, too! 

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Applications for the Clack WS1 Valve

The Clack WS1 valve is typically used on water softeners but also on a variety of other water treatment products such as: 
• iron filters

• tannin filters

• automatic backwashing filters 

• neutralizing filters 

 
The valve is the same for each of these applications, but there are some subtle differences that come into play. 
 
VALVE TYPES: The five-button valve can be arranged in three and two (see video demo), or it can be arranged with all five buttons straight across. The difference between a three-button and a five-button is that the three-button is a time clock valve, which is typically used on backwashing carbon filters, backwashing sediment filters, and others not needing a metered filter.
 

HOW TO DISASSEMBLE & REBUILD A CLACK WS1 VALVE

STEP 1: Put the unit on bypass.
Before you do any work on this kind of valve, or any water treatment valve, you always have to start at the same place -- you have to put the unit on bypass. In the video below you’ll see the unit has a bypass valve built in the back. You’ll notice there are two red shut-off levels that are shaped like an arrow. Point the two arrows towards each other to bypass the unit.
 
STEP 2: Release the pressure inside the valve. 
Once you've bypassed the unit then you need to release the pressure inside the valve. To do that, you start a regeneration cycle. Push the REGEN button and hold it down for five seconds. After five seconds or so you'll hear the noise of the valve starting up the cycle which releases all the pressure inside the valve. It's releasing it out to the drain so you will hear some water running to drain. In the drain line, you'll hear some water running and then hear it slowly die off. Once that's happened, the pressure has been released. 
 
STEP 3: Remove the faceplate. 
The next step is to remove the faceplate. To do so, click the tooth tabs on either side and the faceplate comes right off! 
 
NOTE: One of the neat things about the Clack valve now is that they now have a QR code on the units for finding the digital manuals easily! If you have a QR code reader on your cell phone like I do, just scan that code and it will take you directly to the corresponding section of the Clack website that shows you the manual for each model! So simple - no more misplacing bulky manuals, right?
 
STEP 5: Disconnect the power. 
Okay great, so once you've got the faceplate off, the next step is to disconnect the power. If you take a look at your unit, you’ll see there are electrical connections along the bottom for the motor, the power, and the meter. NOTE: The meter wire is gray and will only be on your unit if it uses a metered valve -- typically, you will see this on a water softener, tannin filter and sometimes air over media filters use them. Simply unplug the wires to disconnect the power. 
 
STEP 6: Remove the circuit board. 
Once all wires are disconnected, simply lift up the tab at the top holding the circuit board in place and pull the circuit board forward to remove. To put the circuit board back in or to install a replacement circuit board, you just line up the two tabs at the bottom and then click it in at the top. 
 
STEP 7: Disassemble unit. 
There are wires on the side -- unclip those and then tuck aside so they don’t interfere with your work. Then take a look at the very top of the unit and you’ll see two tabs at the top holding it in. Lift those two tabs up and the whole cradle comes out in one piece! Set the cradle aside. 
 
STEP 8: Unscrew the drive assembly.
Now to get into the piston and the seal pack... Clack makes a great tool called a Valve Disassembly Wrench that we sell on our website for assisting with removing the drive assembly. Check it out here!
 
Once you’ve got the drive assembly loosened up then unscrew it fully and pull out to remove. WARNING: If your unit has been in use, there will be some water coming out when you remove the drive assembly. Because you bypassed it, it's not going to be under pressure but there will still be water that comes out -- so make sure you've got something to catch that water before you unscrew it!
 
STEP 9: Take apart the piston.
Once you pull the drive assembly out, you’ll see the piston(s) on the other side of it. If you need to replace it, now is the time! 
 
STEP 10: Remove spacer stack assembly & clean it well.  
If your unit is an iron filter, you may notice the spacer stack looking quite dirty (like melted fudgesicle dirty). If it is super dirty, it's a good idea to clean it and, as long as it's not leaking, you can actually clean it and reassemble it. If need to replace it, you can order a new spacer stack assembly here.
 
To clean the spacer stack, run it under the faucet to get rid of most of the iron that's clogged on there. You can also use a product like Rust Out for a deep clean which can be found here on our e-commerce website. If using Rust Out, simply take a bucket of water and put some of the powder in it to dissolve in the water. Put the parts in the bucket of solution to soak overnight. When you come back in the morning, the water will be perfectly clear and it will look brand-new!
 
STEP 11: Reassemble.
Once you’ve got everything cleaned up then you can just reassemble the spacer stack and drive assembly. It’s good to note that since the piston is keyed, it only goes back in one way -- which means there’s no confusion on how to put it back together! Before sliding the assembly back in, I usually apply some plumbers clear silicone grease on the o-rings. Then once reassembled, tighten it hand as far as you can and then use the handy Clack tool to close that up nice and tight again. 
 
Now, before putting the circuit board back on, make sure the wires behind it are pushed all the way into the strain relief notches so the wires don’t get in the way and make it hard to close. The circuit board then just clicks back into the two little hooks at the bottom, and make sure the top tabs click all the way back down too.
 
Plug the motor and meter wires back in first, with the power plug going in last (otherwise you’ll get an error code). Once plugged in, you’ll see it'll start to go through its startup which moves the piston into the right spot. When it's back in service, it will get the whole belt set up for doing a sub for water filtration / water softening / tannins. 

 

 

CLACK WS1 VALVE TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS & TRICKS

Q: What Is Error Code: Can’t Find Home? (21:44 timestamp)
Often this error code is a result of a power blip during one of its cycles or could be a hiccup with the piston going back and forth. To fix this, take faceplate off, disconnect power for about a minute to reset valve, then plug back in. 
 
Q: Why Does My Display Have a Blank Screen? (22:46 timestamp)
In cottage country, sometimes when they open up their cottage in the spring and hook units back up they may get a blank screen.

This means one of two things: either the transformer is defective or the circuit board is defective. Unplug power wire and get a voltage tester (see my Blank Screen troubleshooting video here). If it shows voltage then you need a new circuit board. If you don’t get voltage, then you need a new transformer. Both are available on our website. 
 
Q: Why Is My Iron & Sulphur Filter Not Working? (29:26 timestamp)
Typically there’s an injector inside your unit that is clogged, but it’s a super easy fix. Click here for a great troubleshooting video that explains what to do if your iron and sulfur filter is not working.
 
TIP: Apply plumbers clear silicone grease around your injector and o-rings to lubricate it so it doesn’t stretch as easily. (Stretching is what can cause leaks!)
 
Q: How Do I Winterize My Unit? (33:39 timestamp)
If you have an iron filter, water softener, or tannin filter installed in a cabin or a cottage, you will want to winterize it because you're going to turn the heat off during the wintertime. I've got a video that goes into great detail about that, view it here. 

Q: How Do I Program How Hard My Water Is? (35:56 timestamp)
If you were to purchase one of these systems from us either our e-commerce site or a DIY to do from our store, they typically come pre-programmed. If it's a water softener, you need to program how hard the water is. The good news is it’s super easy to do! 
 
With the faceplate on, you’re going to press the NEXT and the UP button at the same time. The first thing you’ll see is a REGEN days which is how many days between REGEN. The default setting is 3 days at 2 am (make sure all your equipment is regenerating at different times if you have multiple units with varying cycle times so they don’t overlap). Press NEXT & NEXT again. 
 
More in-depth videos can be found by clicking here.
 
Q: How Do I Change the Backwash Time? (41:09 timestamp)
If you have a situation where you know your well pump can't keep up or you've got a holding tank where the backwash water is going and you may want to cut that down by a few minutes, it does make a fair amount of difference if you cut that down. To do so, press NEXT and this is the air draw cycle.  
 
For air over media systems, all you'd have to do is set the current time, hit NEXT and NEXT. 
 
Q: How to Determine Water History in a Metered Unit? (44:25 timestamp)
Metered units usually give you 66 days of water history. Typically, a water softener is a metered unit. 



Q: Problem With Fitting / Float Assembly Installation? (46:08 timestamp)
Make sure you remove the c-clip and push the fitting all the way home if you've purchased a water softener or a tannin filter online and either installed it yourself or had a local plumber help you out with the installation. 
 
Q: Benefits of a Backwashable Filter? (49:33 timestamp)
If you're on a municipal water system and there's a lot of chlorine in your water, having a backwashable filter is a great way to get rid of that chlorine. Typically they backwash once a week to remove the chlorine from your water. These systems typically last about 15 or 20 years and you never have to change a filter! 
 
Q: What is the Life Expectancy of a Clack Valve? (52:20 timestamp)
The life expectancy of a Clack valve is typically 20 years plus! These valves have been around since the year 2000 and I can probably count on one hand how many that we've replaced in that span --  very, very few. They are made in USA and they're a great product which is one of the reasons I highly recommend it. 

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Well, I hope this post has helped simplify water filtration to help you conquer crappy water for your family. As I like to say, buy a filter or be a filter -- it’s your choice!

 

 
Need more help? If you and your family have identified that there is staining in your home or cottage, an off-putting smell to your water, if there's discoloration, or your water tastes awful, we’re here to help you with those concerns. Check out my YouTube channel - Gary The Water Guy or our website for tons of great information or reach out to our team for more help today. 

Video Transcript

Gary The Water Guy:
Do you want to learn how to disassemble, rebuild and troubleshoot the great Clack WS1 water treatment valve? Well, that's what we're talking about here today. Hi, I'm Gary The Water Guy and I simplify water filtration to help you conquer crappy water for your family. I've often said that the Clack WS1 is the best water treatment valve in the business, and I've done lots of videos on troubleshooting these valves and a lot of other great information. But I thought today I do a live stream and I actually disassemble it on YouTube live right now for you today, so you can check it out. This is a great live stream for anyone that's involved in the water treatment business, is a plumber or it's a do it yourself at home and just wants to know how to service these valves, or just wants to know all about them and to see if it's a great fit for them.

Gary The Water Guy:
And to learn why I keep saying that it's the greatest water treatment valve out there. Just a couple of things before we get started on this, is I am working on about a 22nd delay, so if you have any questions during the live stream, just post them to the right of your screen there, you can post them and I'll get to them in due course. I guess one of the first questions is, where is this Clack WS1 valve used? Well, obviously it's used on water softeners, but a whole lot more. It's also used on iron filters, it's used on tannin filters. It's used on automatic back washing filters. It's used on neutralizing filters. It's used on a whole bunch of different other water treatment products. The valve is the same. There's just some subtle differences between them. This is a five button valve and the five button valve can be ranged in three and two as this one is here or it can also be arranged the five buttons straight across.

Gary The Water Guy:
This is actually a WS1 CC valve. It's got some more programming and some more information that can be put in. And this is the classic Clack WS1 valve with the five buttons across. This is the original one that came out in the year 2000. Since then there've been more different models that have come across. You may also see one with three buttons like this. The difference between a three button and a five button is that the three button is a time clock valve. That's typically used on things like back washing carbon filters, back washing sediment filters, things like that, where it's not a metered filter. Anyway, like I said, it can be used in all those different areas. Let's see what else we've got here for you.

Gary The Water Guy:
Where do we start? I guess before you do any work on this kind of a valve or any kind of water treatment valve, you always have to start at the same place. And that is you have to put the unit on bypass. This has a bypass valve at the back, built in the back here. And what you do is, these two red shutoffs here are shaped like an arrow. So what you do is you point the two arrows toward each other, toward the middle. By doing that, now you bypass the unit. Once you bypass the unit, then you need to release the pressure inside the valve and to do that you start the regeneration cycle. You push the regen button and you hold it down for five seconds and after five seconds or so, you'll hear that. And that is the valve starting up the cycle.

Gary The Water Guy:
So what it's doing now, it's releasing all the pressure inside the valve and it's releasing it out to the drain. So you hear some water running to drain, and this is the drain line here. You'll hear some water running to drain, and then hear it slowly die off. And once that's happened, the pressure has been released. All right. The next step is that you would remove the face plate. We click the two tabs on either side and the faceplate comes right off. One of the neat things about the Clack valve, historically they always had the manual or a basic manual inside here, inside here. But now if you look at what's inside here, you'll see a QR code. See that. I hope you can see that in the focus. Yup, that's showing up. Okay. If you have a QR reader on your cell phone like I do, and if you open that QR reader, hope you can see that, you press okay, and it takes you right into the section of a Clack website that shows you the manual for the different models.

Gary The Water Guy:
So you can see there's four different models there, there's a three button, a five button straight across, and then two other five button valves. You just click on the one that you have... Come on Clack, don't make me a liar. All right. I clicked on there and there's a basic manual that comes up. What I mean by basic manual, it shows you things like, how to bypass it, how to set the time, et cetera. Again, that's a great little manual that comes in there. If you're looking for a more in-depth manual, you can always send us an email and we can email you one, depending on which valve you have. Okay, great. You've got the face plate off. Now the next step is, so this is... I'll turn it like this, so you can see a little bit better.

Gary The Water Guy:
Right now, it's counting down. What we can do is, we need to disconnect the power. So you see there's electrical connections along the bottom here. And so depending on what the valve is doing, if it's a metered valve, how do you know if it's a metered valve? If you look at the sigh here, do you see this gray wire here? That's going to the meter over here. That's the gray wire here. Actually before I disconnect that, why don't I show you a little bit about the meter? To get to the meter, you'd unscrew this. Now, if this valve was connected, even though you've released the pressure, when you open up the meter, there's going to be some water comes out. You can use a screwdriver to do this, or you can use, I've used the loony, we're up here in Canada, so I've used the loony for this before, and then you can pull out the meter.

Gary The Water Guy:
The turbine that controls it. This is the turbine that spins when water is flowing through it. One way that you can check the turbine is if you take this, I'm just going to take it to the end of its cycle so it's back in service. Once it starts counting down the minutes with any cycle, if you press the regen button again, then it will take you to the next cycle or to the end in this case, because this was the second cycle. This is actually programmed as an arrow over media, iron or sulfur or something like that. All right. Okay. It's back to the home screen. You know it's on home screen when it has the current time. If I blow on this to simulate water flowing through, can you see that the word filtering is flashing in the top left corner there? I'll do it again. See that.

Gary The Water Guy:
That's how it tests the meter. It'll flash a few seconds longer even after the meter stops or the turbine stops. That's how you can test the meter. All right. So again, we'll put that back in there. Typically the meter is only included in water softeners, tannin filters, sometimes air over media iron filters have them too. All right. So moving right along. So you see there's three electrical connections. On this one, this is for the motor, this is for the power and this one here is the one for the meter, the gray wire that we were just looking at. All right. I'm just going to show you very quickly how to remove the motor. So many things about this valve are so easy to service and replacing the motor is a biggie. So to replace the motor, all you would do is disconnect electrically, then it has the snap ring along the bottom here.

Gary The Water Guy:
And then all you do is just push it in and the motor slides right out. That's amazing how easy that is to change. Now, having said all that, in 18 years of doing service work on a water treatment equipment, including Clack valves, how many motors have I changed in the field? None. They're incredibly reliable. But anyway, all right, so we'll click that back in there. Good. Okay. So to disconnect the power, you would connect this one. It's this one here. Again, if your valve is a back washing valve or one that doesn't have a meter, you won't have this electrical connection here, I'm going to disconnect that now. If you're just removing the circuit board, then you would disconnect the motor at this point too. So removing the circuit board is super easy. I'm just going to slide this a little bit forward so you can see a little bit better.

Gary The Water Guy:
So you see this one tab in the middle here at the top. All you would do is you would lift up that tab and the circuit board comes right out. So again, you lift that up, pull a circuit board forward and you can replace it. And if anyone's ever done any work on any of the other brands of water softening valves and tried to remove a circuit board, it's a big process. This one is so simple to remove and so simple to replace. One tip for water treatment equipment of any sort that's electrically, use a search suppressor. A search suppressor will make these boards last a lot longer. That's about the only reason why these boards fail is if you've had a brown out or something like that that's affected the power. To put the circuit board back in, you just line up the two tabs at the bottom and click it in at the top.

Gary The Water Guy:
All right. We want to remove this whole unit. We want to disassemble it. That's what I promised you here. Okay. These wires that are on the side here, turn this here so you can see a little bit better. All you do is unclip those. You can set them up here, out of the way. And then there's two tabs at the top, at the very top. See these two tabs up here. All you do is just lift those two tabs and the whole cradle comes out in one piece, like that, whole thing comes out. So then all you do is you can just set that aside. I'll put it over here. All right. Now to get into the piston and the seal pack is inside here. Why would you have to get into this piston and seal pack? Well, if this is an iron filter or a water software on well water that has iron, you're going to have some buildup inside on that seal pack inside there.

Gary The Water Guy:
It could be a water softener too. What happens is the seals... This is a seal pack here, it that comes in a unit like this. I'll hold it a little closer, so you can see a little bit better. There you go. It comes totally assembled in a unit like this. But what can happen over the years, or if there's some really rough water coming in here, like water that has lots of iron or lots of grit in it, as the piston goes back and forth, it can foul these o-rings inside here. And then what'll happen is, occasionally I'll get a call that people say, well, when the water softener or the iron filter or whatever it is, is in service, I can hear water still trickling to the drain. And what that's telling you is that this and or the piston has been compromised. So this has to be replaced. This is the next stage, what we're going to here, right now, is to remove this section here.

Gary The Water Guy:
All right. So Clack makes this great tool. If you're looking where to get one, we have them on our website. You just click this in here. It just fits right in there. Hold it up close and you can use that to start to unscrew the drive assembly, they call this. All right. So once I've got it loosened up, then we'll just unscrew this. Okay. So again, if this is in use, there will be some water coming in here again, because you've bypassed that it's not going to be under pressure, but there will be water that comes out. Make sure you've got something to catch that water. Let me pulled it out here and here. All right. This is what comes out of there. And so what you're looking at here, just making sure that you can see it. Yup, you can, is this is the piston and this is the brine piston.

Gary The Water Guy:
So if what you're working on is a water softener or an air over media iron or sulfur filter, you'll have the piston and the brine piston. If it's a back washable filter, it's just going to have the piston. If it's a water softener, it's going to have the piston and the brine piston. They're both going to be there. This unit here is a Frankenstein. This is the one that I use when I do consumer shows, cottage shows that kind of thing. So you can see, this is used. This was used as an iron filter at one time. But these things are super easy to replace and super easy to disassemble. You can see it's tabbed in there. So all you do is just slide that out like that. It's the brine piston. This one here, now you may have to extend it and to extend it you just turn, so it comes out. Again, this comes out.

Gary The Water Guy:
One of the great things about this is it's keyed, so it will only fit one way. You can't put this in wrong way. All right. So then the next thing is to remove the seal pack. This is what the seal pack looks like. Again, this was an iron filter, so you can see it's quite dirty. With iron, these can become super dirty. I mean, super dirty. It looks melted fudgesicle in here. It's just totally covered with iron in that. And if you run into that, it's a good idea to clean it. And as long as it's not leaking, you can actually clean it and reassemble it. How do you clean it? Well, the obvious way is you'd run it under the faucet and that get rid of most of the iron that's clogged on here. But what else you could do is you can use a product like this. This is a rust out. So you can use that. Again, that's available on our e-commerce website, if you're looking for that.

Gary The Water Guy:
What you do is, you just take a bucket of water, you put some of that powder in it, dissolve it in the water, and then you take these parts and you put them in that bucket. You leave it overnight. You come back in the morning, the water will be perfectly clear and this'll look brand new, and then it's time to reassemble it. You can also clean out inside here. Again, you can use that liquid after you've dissolved it in water, that liquid rust out and you can wash out the inside of the valve here with that to clean it up. All right. Once you've cleaned all that up and you've got the spacer stack all cleaned up, then you can just reassemble this. I should mention too, is that sometimes this spacer stack is stuck in there and it's stuck in there that you cannot get it out. You try prying it out, you try putting your fingers in there and pull it out, you try doing all kinds of things.

Gary The Water Guy:
If you cannot get that thing out of there, Clack actually makes a tool to get that out. And this is it here. I'll hold it a little closer here so you can see. It is actually made so that when you apply some pressure, it spreads like this to hook into the inside so that you can pull it out. Now, how many times have I used one of these in the field? Never. I've always gotten them out without any problem, but like I say, we do have one and if we ever run into that situation, we're covered. All right. Spacer stack goes back in and then you need to reassemble the drive. Okay. So again, the piston is keyed. Now, if you're cleaning up the old piston and you're reusing the piston, what you should do is on these outside surfaces here, you should use some very fine sandpaper and just sand them. That just cleans it up a little bit so it slides in and out more easily, especially if, like I say, if you've got a lot of iron or if you've got a lot of sand sediment in your water, that kind of thing, that's a good thing to do.

Gary The Water Guy:
And same with this little brine piston. Now, if your spacer stack is leaking or the seals are gone in the spacer stack, or it's just too far gone, then I recommend replacing the spacer stack, well, you need to anyway, but also replacing the piston and the brine piston. They're not all that expensive and that way you've got a whole new assembly and that makes a lot of sense. I have seen these too, where the people are in well water and they've had a problem with the well, and they've got sand in their well, and sand has been sucked up and it totally fills all this, totally fills inside here. And I've actually seen it actually snap this. If you have that situation, obviously you need a spin down filter or something like that before the system, to make sure you get rid of that sand or correct the problem in the well obviously. Okay, so then all you need to do is reassemble this.

Gary The Water Guy:
If you look closely here, and again, I don't know if you can see it or not, right up here. Okay? What it says up there is no lubricant on clear seals. What they mean by clear seals, is that these clear seals that are here, these are the clear seals. What they don't mean is the o-ring that's around here, the black o-ring. I usually use some plumbers clear silicone grease on those o-ring and then put that back in. All right. So then we feed that in, like that, and start tightening that up. Take it hand tight as far as I can, which looks like I'm just about there. And then we use our Clack tool to close that up. Thanks for watching folks. I can see more and more people are tuning in. Thanks. I appreciate the support. Watching this live stream. All right. Great.

Gary The Water Guy:
We've got that together. If this part is protruding too far, it's going to make it difficult to get the assembly back together. What I normally do is I just turn it in this direction so that this goes inside, like that, it makes it a little easier to reassemble. Okay, great. So we got that part and we put this together. There's two little hooks here and the feet just hook into there. Well, actually before we do that, one thing you have to be careful of is these wires up here. There's a little strain relief notches up here where the wire has to go and you have to make sure, like I didn't, you have to make sure that these wires are pushed all the way in, into those strain relief. I've come across a number of valves where someone did not do that and it actually caused problems because this wouldn't click shut.

Gary The Water Guy:
So both tabs at the top here need to click, all the way down. All right. Let me turn it this way. So then we thread through the sides here and if you've estimated the length correctly, then these will plug in here perfectly. But Gary didn't estimate that length correctly, so we have to do this again. All right. Take that off, pull his black wire out and pull it up a little longer, here. If you have it too long, it'll foul at the bottom. But after you've done it a couple times, well, I said that, I've done it a couple thousand times and I had a problem. Didn't I? All right. We'll thread this back through here and just like magic, I should say, plug this in here. You want to plug the power in last, make sure the motors plugged in first. If you plug in a power before the other things, when you plug in the motor or whatever, you'll get an error message. Okay? So we plugged this in.

Gary The Water Guy:
And then you'll see it'll start to go through its startup procedure. What it now does, it's moving the piston into the right spot, so it's back in service and it's getting the whole belt set up for doing its job for water filtration, water softening, tannins, whatever it's being used for. All right. While we got the faceplate off, I'd like to talk about error codes. Occasionally you'll get an error code. One of the most common error codes is that the unit can't find home. And that may be because there was a power blip when it was during one of its cycles. It could be a number of reasons, could be a bit of a hiccup with the piston going back and forth or something like that. And you get an error code on the screen. When you do, take the faceplate off, disconnect the power, give it about a minute or so. So it totally powers down. And what that does, it'll reset the valve and then you plug it back in.

Gary The Water Guy:
I know what some of you are thinking at this point. You're thinking, well, Gary, if I just unplug it from the wall, that does exactly the same. Actually it doesn't, because the four pistons there or the four pins that are on the power connection as you'll see, they control that reset. Okay. So it's important that you unplug it from here when you want to do the reset. Again, while we got the faceplate off, let's talk a little bit too about troubleshooting. One of the troubleshooting areas that you might run into some times, and I find this time of year in the spring in cottage country here, when folks have had these units in storage, or they've had them laid out horizontally for winter. When they hook up the cottage, get everything running again in the spring, sometimes they'll put it all together and they'll get a blank screen.

Gary The Water Guy:
They got a blank screen. If you get a blank screen is one of two problems. Either the transformer that plugs into the wall is defective, or the circuit board is defective. How do you troubleshoot that? Well, the first thing you do is you unplug this and then get a voltage tester, and you just put a voltage tester in these pins. I've got a video about that. If you just search on Gary The Water Guy YouTube channel, you'll see a great video on a blank screen for a Clack water softener. And it shows you how to test for voltage. If you're getting voltage here, bad news, you need a new circuit board. If you don't get voltage here, a little better news, all you need is a new transformer. And again, we have the circuit boards and the transformers on our e-commerce website. You can just order it. Or if you're a local customer here in Midland, you can stop by our store, we do have them in stock all the time.

Gary The Water Guy:
All right, great. Now, let's talk a little bit about what's going on at the top here. This is the connection to the drain, and this is the connection, the brine line if it's a water softener, it goes through a brine line. If this is a back washable filter, in other words it doesn't use brine or does it's not an air over media iron, or sulfur filter or it doesn't use the air injector that would go up here. Then there'd just be a plug here. All right. Let's talk about the drain connection for a second. This is half inch PEX that goes to the drain and this is the compression fitting. For a water softener, for everything, except for what uses air, this works great. If you're using this as an iron filter or a sulfur filter, or FOK cade locks, iron sulfur and manganese filter, I don't recommend using this fitting that comes with, and I'll show you a little closer why.

Gary The Water Guy:
Like I said, this is just the compression fitting. So the more you tighten this, the more it holds it in. But the problem is, when it's used as one of those air over media filters, there's compressed air inside the top of this tank. So when it starts going into its backwash cycle, it has to blow that air out of there. I've actually seen this blow right off. So what we do in those situations, you use this. This is a standard female, three quarter inch thread, two half inch PEX fitting. Okay? You can buy this at any Home Depot or whatever. What we do is we just unscrew this fitting that comes with the equipment, and then use this one instead, some Teflon tape on here obviously, and put that on there. Okay? And then connect the PEX to it. That's a nice tight seal. So you don't have to worry about it blowing off. That's one suggestion I have if you're using it for air over media iron sulfur filter.

Gary The Water Guy:
Now this is just while we're here, is that these two are both the same size. In under no circumstances, should you ever disconnect both of them, because there's a 50, 50 chance when it comes time to put it back together, you'll put it back the wrong way, and that will be disastrous. I always suggest just doing one at a time. All right. And it has these little C-clips. These C-clips here, I guess that would be an E-clip, wouldn't it? The camera picking that up? No, too close. There. This E-clip, and that's what locks it in place. Always make sure it's clicked all the way in and then pull up on it just to make sure that it's tight. All right. So this is, like I said, this is the brine connection. This would be for a water softener or a tannin filter.

Gary The Water Guy:
And so again, you've got the same E-clip, you just pull up on that. That's what that looks like. Can the camera focus? Yes, it can. All right. Great. And so that's the fitting. This is a quick connect fitting. Okay? This connection here. This is like a John Guest fitting or a SharkBite, that kind of thing. So to disconnect this, you push this in, pull the collar back with your fingernails and then pull it out. All right. This is the collar that I was referring to, this collar right here, it's gray. You see that? You would pull that back. Okay? And then to connect this, you push it in until it stops, but don't stop there. Keep going, push it in. And you'll notice it slides in about another quarter of an inch or so. And that's how it locks in place so you can pull back on it. That's how that connection is made for the brine line.

Gary The Water Guy:
All right. So for an air over media, it has a different connection than for the bride line. It has one of these. Okay? This is when it goes through the air over media systems, they have a 15 minute backwash and then they have a 30 minute air draw. This is where the air comes in. It has a check valve in here. The check valve is actually here. And the reason it has the check valve, is that it can suck air in through this side here and fill the top of the tank with air. Okay? But when it goes through its cycle, it cannot let any water back out. Okay? So again, it's the same fitting as what we saw over here, quick connect fitting, that goes there. When this unit is going through its cycle, when it's an air over media, iron or sulfur filter, when it's going through its cycle, the first cycle is a 15 minute backwash. And the second cycles is 30 minute, it'll say brine drop, but it's actually an air draw.

Gary The Water Guy:
When it's going through that cycle, if you listen close to here, you should hear gurgling sound and that's air being sucked in through here. Okay? And if you don't hear that air gurgling sound, there's something wrong. I have a great video, let me see if I can find it here. Yep. This one right here. Whoops. Too far. There. If you see this video here, this is iron and sulfur filter not working. It's a great troubleshooting video that will help you do that. What's involved in that? Typically what the problem is, is there's an injector inside here that's clogged. I would say if there's an Achilles heel of these as an air over media system, it's the injector gets clogged, fairly readily. It depends how much iron you have. Some folks it'll last eight to 10 years before getting clogged, some other folks it will only last two or three years to get clogged. The good news is it's super easy to fix. And that video shows you how to fix it, but I'm going to show you how to fix it right now too.

Gary The Water Guy:
All right. This is the cap for the injector. So unscrew that. Now, it's not always hand tight. Although I do find that hand tight is enough to seal the water on these units, surprisingly enough. All right. So this is the cap. And if you look inside here, you can see it on the camera. You can just barely see it there. It's blue. Okay. You see the blue? All right. So to get that out, normally you can just use the cap. We got the power cord messed up here. Normally you can just use the edge of the cap here to pry that out. If we go in here, by the way, this is sitting up on a box. So it's about the same height as I am. Normally it wouldn't be this high. All of this is 62 inches tall, this unit. All right. There's the injector there. Okay? Can the camera focus? Yes, it can. All right.

Gary The Water Guy:
And if you look at it from this angle, there's a very small hole in that injector. And what'll happen is in time, that'll become clogged. That hole is part of aventurine in there, and as water slowly passes through, when it's in the air draw or the brine cycle, that's what creates the suction to suck the air in through here. Or if it's a water softer to suck the brine from the brine tank and run it into this tank. Okay? If this is dirty, it isn't going to happen. So you can clean that. You just have to be very careful that you clean it. I suggest a pointy wooden toothpick, because you don't want to enlarge that hole. If you enlarge that hole, you're going to have all kinds of problems with the system. Also these injectors come in different colors, the different colors are for the different size tanks. So make sure when you're ordering the replacement one for your system, that you order the same color.

Gary The Water Guy:
And again, we have those on our website. They're quite inexpensive. I think they're less than $15. So most of the time in the field, we don't even clean them. We just replace them. Once you've replaced it, okay, push it all the way down. Now, it's very rare, but I've seen it happen, where that will not come out. There's just so much iron in there and it hasn't been cleaned for forever, and that will not come out. I had one customer not too long ago, I tried with using the cap, didn't work. I tried needle nose pliers, didn't work. I tried a whole bunch of things and finally actually ripped the injector apart, just trying to pry it out. When I finally pried out, I actually put a very small sheet metal screw inside the hole to get something to grip too, and then pulled it out with a pair of pliers. But that's only happened to me once in 18 years. So it's pretty rare.

Gary The Water Guy:
Again, changing or cleaning the injector in these systems is super easy. If you compare that to some of the auto troll or the Fleck valve water softwares, they're much more difficult. Actually, before I do this, I should mention too. I'm a big believer of plumbers clear silicone grease, especially when it comes to o-rings. And so there's no o-ring around here. So that's what I would do. I would put plumbers clear silicone grease around here. And the reason I do that is to lubricate this o-ring, because if it's not lubricated, what will happen is the old ring will stretch slightly. And once it's stretched slightly, guess what? It's going to leak. If you can do that. Again, that's one of the many tips and tricks I promised you this evening with this live stream. All right, great.

Gary The Water Guy:
While we're at this end of the... This is the bypass we spoke about a little bit earlier. If this is being installed in a cabin or a cottage or something like that, where this is an iron filter, water softener, tannin filter, any of those things, and you want to winterize it, because you going to turn the heat off during the wintertime. Again, I've got a video that goes into great detail about that, but again, I'll just make it quick for you, because we're talking about this great valve. So then what you would do is, obviously you turn off the water, you drain the rest of the cottage and then you can either bypass this and disconnect it. So as you can see, as I just did, this unscrews without any tools. Once you've unscrewed it, okay? then you can lay this down and drain the water out.

Gary The Water Guy:
Now someone in the video made a comment that, it's a lot more difficult than Gary showed in the video. And I guess that's true. So you do need to lay it horizontally and it actually works better if the bottom is higher than this end to get the water out and it bloo, bloo, bloobs out. The other thing you can do is you can get a fitting and make a connector for a compressor. That's what we do when we winterize these for local customers in this area. We put together a fitting and we hook it up to a compressor and we blow the water out and then lay it down horizontally. It is key that you lay it down horizontally for the wintertime. Just the past week, we had a customer contact us where they didn't lay it down horizontally, they left it standing up and it burst of the tank when it froze. So just be careful with that.

Gary The Water Guy:
All right. But again, like I say, Clack makes this valve so easy to work on and so easy to work with too. All right. Let me talk a little bit more about the programming and the valve itself. If you were to purchase one of these systems for us, either our e-commerce site or a DIY to do from our store, they come pre programmed. All you need to do is if it's a water softener, you need to program how hard the water is and I'll show you how easy that is to do. Actually put the faceplate on. It's a little easier to follow along. Can you see that? Yes. I'll turn it this way, so you can see the scoop, this way so you can see the information up on the screen a little bit better. All right, great. When it comes to, just some basic program, you've pressed the next and the up button at the same time, the first thing, let's say, regen days.

Gary The Water Guy:
That's how many days between regen. And again, this is how they come from the factory, three days. And that's the default that we usually start with. We don't like to let an iron filter, that's what this is programmed as an iron or sulfur filter. We don't like to leave it go more than three days. We don't want the iron to build up inside the tank. Typically three days is the default. Here's a great question too, if you're in a seasonal property, cottage cabin, that kind of thing, and let's say you go away at the end of the weekend and turn the water off, well, this isn't going to clean itself after three days because the water's off. It will think it's going to clean itself, but it's not going to do that. In scenarios like that, what I suggest to folks is, ideally an hour before it's time for you to go press this and hold this regen button, start the regeneration and let it go through its whole cycle.

Gary The Water Guy:
And then when it finishes, shut off your water and go back to the city or wherever you go. And then when you come back up, put the water back on, you're ready to go. Another second option of doing that, not quite as good, but almost as good, is that if you've been away for a month or something like that, when you come up to use the cottage or the cabin on the weekend, or for an after an extended period of time away, turn the water back on, regenerate it right then, right there, hold down the button for five seconds, let it go through its cycle and again, you'll be good to go. That's one way that you can manually override it. Okay. So regen every three days, we press next. So that's what time is going to regen, the default time is 2:00 AM. Just make sure if you've got multiple pieces of equipment, like a water softener, iron filter, tannin filter, backwash filter, that kind of a scenario, make sure that all the equipment is regenerating at different times, be mindful of how long the cycles are.

Gary The Water Guy:
This one's only 45 minutes, but a water softener or tannin filters is an hour and a half. Just makes sure that those times don't overlap, press next again and next again. One thing that you can do with this five button valve that has the three in the two rows. So the two rows of three and two, is if you press next when it's in service, it's going to show you it's flow rate. It's going to tell you, so right now you can go in the house or the cottage or the cabin and run some water somewhere and you can see how many gallons per minute of water are actually flowing through this unit right now. That's a handy feature. I've run into situations, I had a customer several years ago that was complaining that his water softener wasn't working and he was using tons of salt, but it just wasn't working properly. He wanted a new one. So we put her in a new one.

Gary The Water Guy:
And he said, you know what, this new one you put in is using pretty much the same amount of salt as the other one. I said, okay, well, let's have a look. We went and we set it on here. And I said, is anybody using any water? He said, no, but it was showing 0.2 gallons per minute. There was some water being run in that house all the time at 0.2 gallons per minute. If you do the arithmetic, that's a lot of water in a day. And what happened was the toilet, that was running so slowly, 0.2 gallons per minute, that you couldn't it, but this detected it. So that's a great feature that's built in. If we press next again, it'll say how many days are remaining. Okay? But if this was a water softener and was programmed as a water softener, it'll actually tell you how many gallons of capacity are remaining in this.

Gary The Water Guy:
Now, it doesn't go right down to zero. It typically goes down to its reserve capacity, which is usually somewhere around 10 or 15, sorry, about 60 to 70 gallons of water. It'll trigger regeneration for that night. What does that look like? Today we a phone call and this is what was being displayed. Can you see that? Yes, I think you can, right up here. See where it says regen today, flashing off and on, customer said, it keeps saying that, but nothing's happening. I don't see anything happening. That's because it's just telling you that tonight at 2:00 AM, the time that's programmed in here for it to regen, that's when it's going to regen. It's just warning you, pre-warning you that that's going to happen tonight. All right. We talked about the word filtering displaying here.

Gary The Water Guy:
Again, on a metered system like this, it'll say filtering up here. If this set up as a water softer when there's water flowing through the water softener, it'll say the word softening up here, to tell you that the meter is working and that water is flowing through the system. All right. Some other programming that we can get into here, again really quickly. I have more videos in depth on this. If you press the next, then the down button, it'll allow you to change it between, I can go back one, between filtering or softening. Okay? Filtering is what's classified for, like I say, an FOB, FOC, FOK, an iron sulfur filter. That's how those are set up. So then you press next. Now you can actually change the backwash time. If you have a situation where your well pump can't keep up that well, or you've got a holding tank where the backwash water's going, and you may want to cut down by a few minutes. It does make a fair amount of difference. If you cut that down, press next.

Gary The Water Guy:
This is the air draw cycle. Again, if you find that water's pretty tight, then you can change that down by maybe five minutes or something like that, the time. The opposite is also true. If you find that after it regenerates, it takes care of the iron, takes care of the sulfur in that, but toward the end of the second day or something like that, you starting to get the symptoms back again. So again, you can increase this time. Press next, but generally this is how it comes, right out of the box. So you don't have to do all this programming for these air over media systems, all you have to do is set the current time. Press next and next. Okay. So that's the current time. How important is the current time? Well, it's actually very important.

Gary The Water Guy:
It doesn't care what time it is right now, but the problem is if you don't set the right current time, it doesn't know when 2:00 AM, when it's regen time is. So whenever it thinks 2:00 AM is, that's when it's going to regenerate and you don't want it regenerating. Had a call from someone today. And they were saying, they had a relative there and they got up early in the morning and they went to run some water and the water was really brown. And they heard all kinds of racket downstairs from where their water treatment equipment was. Well, what was happening was the iron sulfur filter was going through its cycle. These folks have a lot of iron in their water. And at the stage it was at it actually diverted that water through the faucet, so they got brown water coming through.

Gary The Water Guy:
And that's why it's important to make sure you set the regen time at a time when there's very little water usage in the home. All right. So I'm seeing a question came through from David McClellan. My Clark is set up as an iron filter. When water is turned on in the house, should you hear water trickling in the tank? No. Dave, by the way, thanks for the question. No, you won't hear anything as the unit. And that's what folks that have never had water filtration equipment and we start talking about these equipments because they bought a rural property or a cottage or something like that. They'll say, how much noise does this stuff make? And I say, well only makes noise when it's regenerating. It doesn't make any noise at all when it's in use, water just flows through. That's it. Thanks for your question, Dave. Anybody else have any questions please?

Gary The Water Guy:
This live stream is ending in 16 minutes and I'd love to answer your questions live. If you do have any questions after the live streams done, just put it in the comments down below. I do answer all questions. I try to get to them within a day or two, but sometimes it takes a little bit longer, but I do answer all questions and I really appreciate getting them. Especially if you have any ideas for upcoming videos or upcoming live streams, I'd love to get your input, very important to me. All right. There's other program that you can go into with these two. They will tell you, they give you 66 days of water history. Now it has to be a metered unit to do that. Okay? A metered unit. Typically it's a water softer, metered unit, tannin filter. Tannin filters a little bit different. A tannin filter, what's a tannin filter? Looks like a water softener, use a salt like water softener.

Gary The Water Guy:
In fact, if you see them both side by side, they look identical. Tannin filter removes color from water. What's tannin? What's the color? What is tannin? Tannin is an organic. So iron is a mineral. And often if you have iron in your water, you get those rusty stains, while tannins, you also get brown staining, but it's from an organic. And often at least in this area here, we have a lot of cedars. So as the cedar roots decompose, they tint the water and then that tinted water gets into the aquifer and it tints your water. It's often misdiagnosed as iron. So just be careful if you have colored water and you're calling someone in, one of the first questions I would suggest asking them, do you know how to differentiate between iron and tannins? Because a lot of the guys don't.

Gary The Water Guy:
We've corrected a lot of systems where someone's misdiagnosed it as iron, put it an iron filter, doesn't work, they call the supplier back a couple of times and then somehow for some reason, the guy doesn't call them back anymore. And it's because they put it in the wrong equipment. So be careful of that with tannins. Tannin filter uses more salt than a water softener does because it regenerates more often. All right. Great. What didn't I talk about so far? Okay. Let me talk about the float assembly. So this is a question I've gotten actually a couple of times recently, and that is, we had a do it yourselfer purchase a tannin, actually it was both tannin filters and it was within the last month or so. And so this is the float that goes inside the brine tank. Okay?

Gary The Water Guy:
When we ship them to you, they have this tape on the end. And when you take the tape off, again, you'll see a fitting on here. You'll see a little part, looks like this. Can that focus? Yes, it does. Little part that looks like this. And you'll see a fitting on the end of here, that looks a whole lot like a John Guest type fitting or quick connect fitting, and that's exactly what it is. Now you have to be careful with this because there's a clip on here. Comes out like that. All right, there. All right. Like I say, there's a C-clip on here. See, C-clip. So you pull that out. And again, this is a quick connect fitting, like a SharkBite or a John Guest type fitting. So you have to pull that clip out first. You take the tubing, you shove it into the fitting as you think it stopped. Okay? But then you push further and it goes in, like I say, about another quarter of an inch and it needs to go all the way in like that. And you need to lock it with this clip, otherwise it's not going to work.

Gary The Water Guy:
In both of the instances, when I got a phone call, they had someone help them with the installation and they didn't remove the C-clip and they didn't push this all the way home. So what was happening was, the tannin filter worked perfectly when they first installed it. But then when it went through its regeneration cycle, instead of sucking the water, the brine from the brine tank, through this tube and into the brine elbow at the top of the Canon filter, it didn't do that. Okay? It didn't regenerate properly. So after about a week or 10 days or something like that, they called me, they said, hey, this tannin filter worked perfectly for three or four days, but now it doesn't work. And by the way, it's not using any salt. Or they're saying that, I got a lot of water in my brine tank, I can't figure out why. And that's why, because this fitting wasn't pushed all the way in. That's something to check for if you've purchased a water softener or tannin filter or something like that from us online, and either installed it yourself or had a local plumber help you out with the installation.

Gary The Water Guy:
All right, great. What didn't I talk about so far? Oh, this. This is a plug. Okay? If the unit that you have is a back washable filter, like a back washable sediment filter, back washable carbon filter, or that kind of thing. Instead of having that injector in there, it'll have one of these plugs. Okay? This one's a little beat up because I pulled it out of this unit to show you, because this was originally sold, I guess, like I said, this is a Frankenstein. This I just cobbled pieces together to use for cottage shows and home shows and things like that, to show people the equipment. It's incredibly light. And that's because there's no media inside the tank, so it's easier to move around, but this is the plug that I pulled out. One thing that people often ask me about is these back washable sediment filters and back washable carbon filters. Why would someone have that?

Gary The Water Guy:
Well, if you're on a municipal water system and there's a lot of chlorine in your water, it's a great way to get rid of that chlorine. Typically they backwash once a week. So as the water passes through, it removes the chlorine from your water, it's installed before the water softener, because water softeners hate chlorine. And that shortens the life expectancy of the media inside. And then once a week, they backwash, clean themselves up and they typically last about 15 or 20 years. And you never have to change a filter. Instead of going with a filter cartridges and they have to have a filter wrench, like you probably see behind me on the wall over there, probably out of focus, but as a carbon filter to pre-filter your water for your family, so you don't get that horrible chlorine in your home. This is a great alternative for a back washing carbon filter.

Gary The Water Guy:
Back washing sediment filter, that's typically used for folks that either have a lot of dirt in their water or well water or surface water, people that are drawing from a lake. You may be drawing from a lake. So around here, the lakes often have tannins. So scenarios like that will have a back washing sediment filter. They may have a backwash and carbon filter too, get rid of chemicals from the water, herbicides, pesticides, that kind of thing. And then it would go into a tannin filter, remove the color from the water. And then from there, it would into ultraviolet light to kill any bacteria. And you always need a five micron pre-filter before an ultraviolet light. That's usually the system for surface water. Again for well water, really depends what's in your water. In our area here, we have some pockets that the water's really bad.

Gary The Water Guy:
So they've got, like I say, they've got tannins in their water, they have iron in their water. Some have sediments in their water, sulfur, you know that rotten egg smell, that hard water, all that stuff is quite common in this area. By the way, Gary The Water Guy, my YouTube channel is Garythewaterguy.com. We have new videos every Saturday morning, usually 5:00 AM, I released them. The only time we don't release one is Saturday mornings when we released live livestream, like we are right now, the Thursday night before. Got over 250 videos on that YouTube channel. Lots of great information there for do it yourselfers, plumbers, anyone that is interested in the water treatment industry. We really to share our information with you. I've been in this industry for 18 years and there's a lot of great information.

Gary The Water Guy:
Some common questions that I get about servicing the Clack valve. I've gone through most of them with you so far. Life expectancy, 20 years plus. The valve's been around since the year 2000. I can probably count on one hand how many that we've replaced in those 20 years. Very, very, very few. We've had a couple of customers that just wanted to start fresh. It's been 18, 19 years and they say, you know what? I just want a whole brand new system. I'm going into retirement. I'd like to start fresh in my retirement. We've had a couple that something really horrible has happened to them because of fires and things like that. They do last long time. They are made in USA and they're a great product. Typically you won't see a Clack valve water softer being sold as a Clack water softener. They've got a lot of restrictions about that.

Gary The Water Guy:
Ours are sold under the HUM Water Care name. HUM Water Care is our own private label brand. It's kind of the best of the best. That's how we label it. We have over 1800 items on our e-commerce website, by the way, our e-commerce website waterestore.com is the US one. Waterestore.ca is the Canadian one. Two separate websites. We offer free shipping in both of them. But if you're from Canada, you need to order from the Canadian one, if you're from the US you need to order from the US one to get the free shipping, no customs and all that other stuff involved.

Gary The Water Guy:
The US ones we ship from US warehouses most of the time. We have a little bit of stock that we ship from Canada, the Canadian one. Again, we ship most of it from Canadian warehouses. A little bit gets shipped from US warehouses to Canada. But like I say, it all works out really well. Any questions about your water treatment? Like I say, you can put them down below in the comment section down below. I love to read your comments. I love to respond to them. If you need your water tested, we do a basic water tests. We don't charge for that. You can mail that to us. Where do you mail it? You mail to Water Store, 1004 King St. Midland, Ontario L4R 0B8 is our postal code. We need about 500 milliliters to check that.

Gary The Water Guy:
We've got another question here from Beli Garan. He's just thanking me for the live stream. It's 0054 hours here in Ireland. Well, thanks a lot. I really appreciate you folks in Ireland, tuning in, staying up till one o'clock in the morning to watch this live stream live, boy, that's dedication. I really appreciate that. That really makes me feel good. And like, I'm not wasting my time doing these things. And that's what it's all about. Like I say, I simplify water filtration to help you conquer crappy water for your families. I'm not here to tell you that there's something wrong with your water. If you and your families have identified that there's staining, there's smell, there's discoloration, it tastes awful, those kinds of things. I'm here to help you with those concerns.

Gary The Water Guy:
Like I say, we're not here to tell you what's wrong with your water. But like I say, if you have a concern about your water, check out our website. Like I say, there's tons of information on there. And each, just about every product on our website by the way, if you scroll down just below the pictures, you'll see some squares that say how it works, how to install, things like that. Those are actually YouTube videos. If you click on that, it'll take you right to one of my YouTube videos that answer that information. Usually I do a live screen of about once a month, once every five weeks or so, depending on the summertime. I'm always eager to get new topics, new topic ideas. This was a little bit different one for us so far, we haven't done a tear down and a rebuilt on a product before.

Gary The Water Guy:
And I know the Clack WS1 is a very popular valve and it's all over the place. How do you know if you have a Clack WS1? That's a great question. Usually one of the giveaways is the bypass valve. Okay? If you see the bypass valve has these pointy levers on it. There's a couple other companies out there that have red levers, but this is the only one that I've seen that has these pointy ones, and that usually is a major clue that it's a Clack valve. Now, some of them, some of the private label ones I've seen out there as being sold under the Water Depot name and a few other names in that, have the valve, have a bigger faceplate on them and different configuration, that kind of thing. But again, if you look for that bypass, it's a Clack valve. And if you pull the top off, everything inside is exactly the same as what I showed. Yeah the circuit boards are configured a little bit differently.

Gary The Water Guy:
This is a four button, which is a super rare one. We have very few customers that have a four button one. I sometimes see that more in the US market than I do here. And this is the replacement circuit board with the five buttons across. That's probably the most common one up until about five to seven years ago, that was the most common one. But like I say, this configuration now is quite common. The WS1 CC. CC actually stands for, the second C is for custom, the first C is Canadian. Canadian Custom. But again, we do offer this to our US customers, shipped from, Sarasota is where we ship these from in the US. And we've got lots of customers in the US. We help a lot of folks all over, including the nice gentleman from Ireland and I really appreciate his comments.

Gary The Water Guy:
We don't have any more questions. Like I say, I really encourage you to put your questions down below. And if you feel you'd like to get more information about our YouTube channel, please subscribe. There'd be a subscribe button typically in the bottom right hand corner. Oh yeah, I see it there. In the bottom right hand corner of the screen, you can click on that. If you click on that and ask for notification, so you'll actually be notified when my new live streams become available. I also encourage you to share my videos. It's great if you can share them on YouTube, share them with your friends and things like that. We've got over 14,000 subscribers and we appreciate every single one of them. We encourage you to share this content with others. That's it for me Thursday night, Gary The Water Guy. Thanks for watching. Really appreciate it.